I’ve visited Udaipur many times over the four years I’ve been married to someone who grew up there, so it’s high time I shared a food-sightseeing-shopping guide. Several readers have asked for recommendations, and this post collects those suggestions, photos and stories from my trips.
Udaipur is incredibly beautiful, and paradoxically harder to describe when it’s also a place you call home. Still, I have a must-do list every time we visit, and I hope it inspires you to explore the city too.
Udaipur’s Mewari history, regal cuisine and centuries-old architecture create near-constant photo opportunities. One Sunday last December, Ashoo and I hopped onto a Kinetic Honda after a long break and rode around the Old City, my favorite part of town. I ended up with many photos of details I hadn’t noticed before and familiar scenes I always stop to admire.
The Old City is the heart of Udaipur’s history and many of its best views, and it’s also home to some of the world’s most beautiful hotels. The rest of the city—where people live and work—has its own rhythms, but for a first-time visitor, put on comfortable shoes or rent a two-wheeler and get lost in the narrow, crumbling streets of the Old City.
Over the years the Old City has evolved into a mix of traditional charm and tourist-friendly services. You won’t find overwhelming crowds, but many foreigners visit, so there are currency exchanges, homestays, hostels, rooftop restaurants, massage parlours, spice shops and places offering cooking and yoga classes. Through it all, the old, crumbly charm endures—painted doors for moody photos, stained glass windows in buildings that look like they might fall, bold Devanagari road signs and a sense that one foot remains in the era of Maharana Pratap.
If you begin at Hathipole and wander toward Surajpole, you’ll cover the main part of the Old City. There’s no set route—turn left or right and you’ll find charming alleys and hidden corners.
This sweet old lady happily posed for a tourist and even brought a friend.
For shopping, I usually buy cotton fabrics at Cotton Plaza (Hathipole). The area has trinkets, footwear, wooden furniture and typical souvenirs spread across two streets—take your time browsing. Every December the Shilpgram festival on the city’s outskirts is a treasure trove of handmade, locally made goods; it’s worth a detour.
Back in the Old City, food is an important part of the experience. Many restaurants cater to tourists with Punjabi, Mughlai and Chinese dishes alongside a small selection of Rajasthani specialties. We often eat at home, so my restaurant recommendations focus more on atmosphere than exhaustive menu reviews—much of the Old City is about feasting your eyes as much as your stomach.
My absolute favorite spot is Ambrai, next to the Leela Palace and part of Amet Haveli. It’s perfect for a glass of white wine with dal makhani and missi roti, offering a stunning view of Lake Pichola, the City Palace and Jag Mandir. I prefer visiting during the day when the skies are clear—there’s nowhere I’d rather sit and stare into the distance than at Ambrai’s corner table.
Many hotels promise rooftop, lake-view dining. Upre at the Lake Pichola Hotel is worth trying for its lights and ambiance; the City Palace Garden Restaurant is well known for its Rajasthani thalis and comes highly recommended. Jheel Café at Gangaur Ghat offers good coffee and lakeside seating outdoors and indoors, and Café Edelweiss nearby serves real coffee in a relaxed setting—perfect for sitting on the steps by the lake.
What I find intriguing is the recent growth of cafes and restaurants offering alternate cuisines, organic options and vegan dishes—an exciting departure from strictly traditional fare. Two places that caught my eye are The Doctor Cafe, with its hippie-backpacker vibe and tempting pizzas, and Millets of Mewar, a bright, three-storey spot focused on organic grains and partially vegan dishes. I haven’t tried everything yet, so if you visit, tell me what you recommend.
While wandering I saw odd black chestnuts that the seller admitted were colored to attract attention—I bought some because I appreciated the honesty. Another vendor was selling rusks on street corners, which is a curious local sight.
If you’re in Surajpole during winter, don’t miss Amrit Halwai—pick up piping hot, perfectly sweet gulab jamuns. They’re irresistible.
Outside the Old City, Saheliyon ki Baadi—once a garden where the queen and her attendants relaxed—is pleasant to stroll through but not essential. If you want green, clean space in the sun, it’s worth a stop. Gulab Bagh is another lush spot on my list to visit.
Fatehsagar Lake is where locals spend evenings drinking kullad coffee, enjoying fresh air and watching the water rise onto the roadside during monsoon. I always make at least one visit—great coffee and excellent bread pakodas are part of the ritual.
I’ll update this post after future visits with more food, shopping and wandering recommendations. Udaipur is full of magic—if you’ve been, leave a comment sharing your favourite spot and suggestions for my next trip.